Ernie

About

Ernie is a 20-foot (6 m) sport climb rated 5.10a, located on the Puoux limestone crag in Glenwood Canyon, just west of Glenwood Springs. The route sits on the 'Ernie' boulder, identified by its orange and grey face facing the parking lot. It is positioned dead center on this face, immediately to the left of an older 5.11c route. The crag is accessible year-round and offers parking. The climb begins on flat, square edges in the orange stone just left of a gnarled oak tree. The tree was removed from the face to improve climbing value. Climbers move to a big ledge, then up and left following a pencil-thin fused crack on flat, two-pad ledges. The finish involves reaching a two-brick-sized orange block in the middle of the face. An alternative option exists to the right via a chossy, dusty crack, though it is considered less desirable. The route is described as having a boulder problem-like quality. A specific hazard involves the rope on the second or third clip; falling while pulling up can result in hitting the oak tree. Climbers are advised to clip the second anchor from a good left-side pull to avoid this. The route was first ascended by Megan Cerise and Evan Winn in 2009.