Pretty Little Red Head

About

Pretty Little Red Head is a roadside ice crag located on the Western Slope near Telluride, Colorado. The primary feature is a south-facing ice route that climbs approximately 80 feet. Because the face is south-facing and fed by simple snowmelt rather than a stream, the ice is thin and dries out quickly on warm, sunny days. Climbers should arrive early to secure good conditions before the ice melts. The route is described as hard and skinny, requiring standard ice screws and rock gear. There are no fixed anchors at the top; descent is achieved via a short rappel from a large juniper bush located about 20 feet back from the cliff edge and 10 feet to the right. Access is straightforward: drive from Telluride toward Placerville and take the turnoff for Silver Pick Road. Continue for one-quarter mile, then look for pullouts on the left side of the road for parking. The site is pet-friendly and allows for general parking, though local Department of Transportation regulations may apply to specific turnouts. The area is accessible year-round, though conditions vary with temperature and snowfall.