DEFCON 1

About

DEFCON 1 is a four-pitch rock climbing route located on the Grizzly Creek Wall in Glenwood Canyon, near Glenwood Springs, Colorado. The route sits at an elevation of 8,475 feet and spans approximately 300 feet in vertical height. It is classified as difficult, with a overall grade of 5.11c/d in the Yosemite Decimal System. The climb combines trad and sport styles, offering both bolted protection and gear placements. The route consists of four distinct pitches. Pitch 1 is 80 feet long and graded around 5.10a/b, featuring five bolts and a yellow Alien cam. A recommended variation, Pitch 1a, begins about 20 feet to the left of the original start and is graded 5.10b. Pitch 2 covers 65 feet with a grade of 5.11c/d, characterized by four or five bolts and a purple Camalot placement; the crux occurs between the second and third bolts. Pitch 3 is 105 feet long, graded 5.10, and relies entirely on gear (trad) with bullet quartzite providing bomber cam placements in horizontal cracks. Pitch 4 is 80 feet long and rated 5.10+ to PG-13, featuring bolts and small gear options. Access is straightforward. Climbers follow the standard Grizzly Wall approach trail. The route is located approximately 30 yards to the left of a feature known as Orangina, where bolts become visible on the wall. Parking is available nearby. The typical duration for a ground-up ascent is about seven hours. The route is pet-friendly and suitable for single-rope rappels from the top of Pitch 4 or lower anchoring to the ground. First ascent was completed by Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson.