Lower Gypsy-East Chimney

About

Lower Gypsy-East Chimney is a two-pitch trad and aid route located on the east side of the Gypsy Towers, situated between Ute and Red Canyon near Grand Junction, Colorado. The route rises 180 feet and is rated moderate. The approach involves driving through the neighborhood directly below the towers and hiking up drainages to the base. Parking is available. The area allows pets. The route consists of a first pitch climbing a cupped hands/fist crack in a dihedral, leading through a squeeze and past large chockstones to a saddle. The second pitch begins with a committing move from the saddle, followed by easier ground to a ledge with optional belay bolts, then aid off drilled holes to a final ledge. The top requires about 30 feet of free climbing up a crack. The route was first ascended by Luke Laeser and Jon Butler in Fall 1993. Climbers should check weather conditions, particularly after rain, as sandstone can become fragile. The area is accessible year-round, though summer heat may require early starts or shade seeking, and winter climbing is possible on sunny days.