South Face Direct

About

South Face Direct is a moderate rock climbing route on the South Face of Independence Monument in Grand Junction, Colorado. The climb is approximately 400 feet long and consists of five pitches. It offers a mix of trad, aid, and offwidth climbing on an exposed face leading to an airy summit. The route begins at two boulders with blue horizontal stripes, located just right of the Independence Chimney. The initial pitch involves scrambling up a gully or slot with sparse protection and easy climbing from class 4 to 5.0. The second pitch features a crux offwidth chimney, approximately 10 to 11 inches wide, rated around 5.7. Climbers can use cracks in the back of the chimney for gear, though reaching them may be difficult. The third pitch ascends angling cracks to a ledge below a 2-foot-wide chimney with a chockstone at the top. The final pitches scramble up to the solid, airy summit ridge and crumbling apex. Stone quality is generally poor, with mud-filled cracks requiring pitons in the lower sections. A current park policy bans piton use, although scars from previous aid climbs are visible and diminish in size as the route ascends. The typical duration for completing the route is about 8 hours. Parking is available at the base, and pets are permitted. The elevation of the climb starts around 4,675 feet, though some sources cite 7,716 feet. The route is accessible year-round from January through December. A critical access issue for 2025 involves a peregrine falcon nesting on Independence Monument. Climbers are encouraged to choose other routes in the monument until the nest outcome is known.