Le Veuve Noire

About

Le Veuve Noire is a two-pitch trad and aid route located on the south face of Irishman's Temple in Grand Junction, Colorado. The climb rises approximately 250 feet through a sustained crack system that transitions from off-width to finger jams. The rock is primarily sandstone, characterized by loose sections and dirt-filled cracks that require careful protection. The route is rated around 5.9 for free climbing, though the dirty conditions may push free-climbing difficulty toward 5.11ish, with an aid rating of C1+. The first pitch pulls through a roof into a crack ranging from fingers to fists, featuring a ledge belay suitable for #0.75 Camalots. The second pitch continues up the crack system, passing through off-widths and a short, un-protected chimney section before reaching a pillar adjacent to the main tower. Climbers can use the anchor from the adjacent route, The Cleansing, or continue to the summit. Descent requires three rappels using two 60-meter ropes, with the second rappel being overhanging and requiring a dynamic swing. The site is pet-friendly and offers available parking.